Greenhouses and covers

Organizing the cultivation of useful plants in an attached greenhouse

For gardeners

12 min read

GREENHOUSES AND COVERS G

The previous chapters examined various ways to use a greenhouse attached to a residential house. Some greenhouses can function as solar energy accumulators solar energy, others as verandas for a residential house or as greenhouses for growing useful crops. In most cases, greenhouse owners strive to combine all these functions, but this is not

At first, a homeowner might only move some indoor plants to the greenhouse for the summer period. If the greenhouse attached to a residential house is large enough, it is also possible to plant some perennial plants, such as shrubs or climbing plants. The time spent on planting such plants will be less than what would be required for indoor plants, as the conditions here are closer to natural ones. Greenhouse owners who do not have sufficient experience in growing useful crops are advised to start by planting early lettuce, parsley, dill, radish, etc. All these crops grow quickly, do not require complex maintenance, and provide a good harvest. Only after that can one proceed to experimental growing of more "difficult" plants, for example, many cultivars of medicinal herbs. Later, when the amateur experimenter has gained enough experience, they can engage in growing summer tomato cultivars. Growing plants in greenhouses independently brings great benefits to its owners: it saves money on buying vegetables; fruits and vegetables harvested in the greenhouse are distinguished by their cleanliness and freshness; and, furthermore, growing plants for one's own table provides pleasure. It is highly important that a person planning to engage in growing useful crops has a correct understanding of the volume of work ahead. In the USA, the following results were obtained regarding the average time spent on performing various tasks.

Shading devices... 22 min/day Plant irrigation (manually) 1 h per week Pest control 1 » » Plant maintenance works..... 3 » Sowing seeds of cultivated plants 9 days/year Transplanting seedlings 10 » Soil maintenance works (moving and renewing) 6 » Harvesting 6 » Time spent in the greenhouse (or time spent using it as a veranda) 182 h/year

The total time used for performing necessary tasks and for people staying in the greenhouse (with an average size of 25 m²) attached to a residential house was 968 h/year. In northern conditions, the period of using the greenhouse for leisure activities

165 In order to fully utilize the potential of their greenhouse, an industrious family should spend an average of 1–2 hours a day on work, starting from February and up to October. It is useful to keep a logbook of observations on the plants. This logbook should contain data on the timing and dates of sowing and planting, harvesting, etc., from which one can draw much useful information for the future.

Growing indoor plants in enclosed spaces and under open-field conditions in a garden plot differs quite significantly from amateur plant cultivation in a greenhouse. In the latter case, indoor plants receive more light, have more space for the development of the root system, and receive more air than in living rooms. Plants grown in a greenhouse receive more warmth and more reliable protection, and furthermore, their growing season is significantly extended.

Favorable results can be achieved by ensuring a sterilized plant-based soil medium, applying artificial fertilizers, using pesticides in the fight against weeds and insect pests, etc., as well as by using large amounts of energy for heating and lighting.

In this book, the recommended methods for performing work are based on the use of natural approaches: the use of organic soil, biological methods for weed and pest control, and the implementation of a program that provides for the use of only a negligible amount of non-renewable energy resources or avoids them entirely.

Detailed information on natural methods of plant cultivation can be obtained in a number of manuals [8–10].

Soil base for plant cultivation

The state of the plant-based soil medium is subject to the same laws as human health — excessive hygiene can be dangerous. If something unexpected happens, the system will not be able to adapt to new conditions, as it lacks its natural defense mechanisms.

At the same time, organic soil contains a large amount of mineral substances, as well as many beneficial living microorganisms. Soil in an indoor space under glass cover must be more fertile than soil in open conditions, as a result of which plant growth under glass occurs faster. Nevertheless, it is inexpedient to replace more than 1/3 of the soil annually — new compost is mixed into the previous soil gradually.

If one takes care of the structure, composition, and protection of the plant-based soil medium from diseases and pests in a timely manner, the need for its complete replacement disappears. Recommended compositions of the main and additional soil components are shown in Table 8.1.

Table 8.1. Recommended composition of mixtures in plant cultivation beds and soil base

- Component Characteristic Application Properties of component peat without | Structure -|.. of artificial | moisture permeability, fertilizers ease of tillage

Soil Rich, fine-grained, | Presence of nutrients, | |1 contains clay and sand | complex of bacteria

Compost Can be relatively | Presence of nutrients, | 1. | fresh (still "alive"), | complex of bacteria contains manure or 6 kg of chicken manure per 1 m³

_ The three main components (peat, soil, compost) are thoroughly mixed, and all additional components, also thoroughly mixed, are added to the mixture of main and additional components. Soil requires a large volume of work. However, this must be done to achieve the set goal in the future. The plant-based soil medium has a low density, as it consists of peat. It retains moisture well, and it contains few weed seeds and other contaminants. But preparing the plant-based soil medium is the beginning of the process.

Table 8.2. Additional soil components

| No Component Characteristic Composition * __ 18 Bone meal — Phosphorus, nitrate | I or Seaweed meal | lime I

Down, feathers Filtered Potassium nitrate 2 down

Wood ash Filtered Micro-fertilizers, 8 alkaline During the period of sowing seed and especially at the end of the growing season, it is necessary to continuously add compost and other substances to the soil, for example, leaf compost or mineral salt solutions, thanks to which plants quickly receive natural nutrients.

If necessary, the soil can be sent for analysis to the firm "Yield Service" ("Viljavuuspalvelu"). It is recommended to take soil samples for the first time in February, the second time a week after the autumn compost has been introduced into the soil, and the third time approximately in the middle of the growing season, to establish the nutrient composition and determine the pH acidity indicator. The plant-based soil medium must meet the following requirements:

Fig. 119. Paper pots are convenient for young seedlings and take up little space. It is advisable to place them in cardboard or light wooden boxes to allow air to reach the root system (open structure in the form of granules);

retain moisture well without turning into a swamp;

contain the necessary mineral substances in an easily accessible form;

have the required acidity (pH value for many plants is 6.5—7.0);

contain a large amount of organic mass, i.e., be a multi-component mixture.

All types of soil have both advantages and disadvantages. Peat-based soil is often too wet inside and excessively dry on the surface.

The plant-based soil medium on a peat base can be used for planting large transplants. It is advisable to use a hygroscopic plant mixture to avoid the appearance of weak transplants and protect them from mold. The authors recommend using a soil mixture consisting of 1 part soil, 1 part sand, and 1 part peat. By doing so, both excessive dryness and excessive humidity are avoided. Instead of peat pots, paper boxes are used. At a later stage and for larger transplants (for example, zucchini, tomatoes, etc.), one should use polyvinyl boxes with a volume of 1—2 deciliters, for example, sour milk or kefir containers, at the bottom of which holes must be made for removing excess water. Some types of transplants, such as leek and green onion, can be sown and grown initially in bright rooms, and then, after thinning, transferred directly to open soil. However, for these types of transplants as well, the authors recommend using hygroscopic mixtures for the soil base.

Mineral additives for plant cultivation

It is advisable to use household waste to produce compost. If there is enough space in the greenhouse, compost can be prepared directly inside it. High-quality compost never emits an unpleasant odor. Beginner gardeners can start with leaf compost, a process that involves layering leaves and soil sequentially. If necessary, this compost can be moistened occasionally. The process of compost preparation in a greenhouse occurs faster than outdoors. The presence of compost in a greenhouse contributes to an increase in carbon dioxide (CO2) content in the air and improves the photosynthesis process in plant leaves.

Various containers or enclosures can be used to prepare combined compost from a mixture of household waste, soil, and green mass.

In the northern regions of Finland, it is quite difficult to find fresh thawed soil in February-March, therefore

Fig. 114. Leaf compost is prepared in an open lattice made of mesh. This is clean compost, safe for beginners in home gardening. Layers of leaves about 20 cm thick should alternate with layers of soil (1 cm). After about 2-3 years (in a shorter time in a greenhouse), this compost forms the same amount of nitrogen as manure.

Fig. 115. Using an enclosure for compost outdoors or in a greenhouse. The dimensions of the enclosure depend on the amount of waste.

Growing plants in an attached greenhouse requires special attention to soil quality and top dressing. To maximize soil enrichment with organic matter directly in the greenhouse, vermicomposting can be organized. For this, a simple closed container with worms is used, which are introduced from ready-made manure or other compost. Rainwater collected from the roof of a house is ideal for irrigation of such plantings.

  1. Drill holes in the bottom of a 25-liter plastic bucket to drain excess moisture.
  2. Place the bucket on bricks covered with soil.
  3. Lay a drainage layer of gravel and river sand at the bottom.
  4. Pour in a layer of moist peat or thoroughly crushed manure.
  5. Add compost made from a mixture of kitchen scraps and seaweed meal, introducing worms into it.
  6. Cover the mixture with a 5 cm thick layer of peat and close the bucket with a lid to prevent moisture evaporation.

Use vermicompost with great caution due to the high concentration of organic matter. Prepare compost based on chicken manure strictly one year before application — this is necessary to neutralize the excessive nitrogen content.

As a free source of nutrients for tomatoes and grain legumes, weeds are suitable: creeping thistles, sow thistles, burdocks, and medicinal plants collected in wasteland areas. They are crushed and ploughed into the soil under the plantings. Liquid fertilizers are prepared from this same plant mass or manure by soaking the raw material in water. Do not over-soak the solution to avoid fermentation and unpleasant odors, but do not shorten the infusion time either, otherwise the nutrients will not have time to dissolve.

For foliar top dressing, 5M3 concentrate from pressed seaweed is used. Spraying with this solution on the leaves has a good effect, for example, on leeks. For root top dressing, an aqueous solution of wood ash or soot is applied. It is used to water the soil from a watering can during the formation and ripening of peppers and tomatoes, repeating the treatment once a week.

Organization of work and greenhouse arrangement

The cultivation process in a greenhouse is based on a standard cycle. It includes soil care, sowing of seeds, adaptation of transplants, ongoing plant care, pest control, and harvesting. To maintain order and operational efficiency, all tools and preparations should be at hand.

  • soil preparation and care;
  • sowing of seeds;
  • adaptation (acclimatization) of plants;
  • care of plantings (thinning, irrigation, installation of supports);
  • observation of insect pests;
  • harvesting.

It is convenient to store equipment in a small attached shed, which is accessible both from the greenhouse and the garden. Watering cans, hoses, shovels, pitchforks, a supply of soil and fertilizer, as well as plant protection products are stored in such a room. For large machinery, such as a lawnmower and a snow shovel, space should also be provided here.

  • Bucket volume for compost — 25 l
  • Thickness of the peat covering layer — 5 cm
  • Area of the equipment shed — 1.3 m²
  • Area of storage shelves — 0.5 m²

Seed are sensitive to the greenhouse microclimate. Keep them in a dark and dry place outside the high-humidity zone.

It is recommended to store the following set of tools and materials in the warehouse:

  • two watering cans;
  • shovel;
  • pitchfork;
  • fertilizer;
  • soil;
  • pesticides for pest control;
  • small tools used in the greenhouse;
  • wheelbarrow and hose for plant irrigation;
  • mower;
  • snow shovel.

When planning the width of the paths, consider the dimensions of the garden wheelbarrow, otherwise it will be inconvenient to move soil and harvest. The dimensions of the aisles must ensure its free passage throughout the greenhouse. When designing, follow these standard parameters:

Length, m Width, m Height, m
1.0 0.6 0.7

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