A system of organic and mineral top dressing for pepper cultivation
18 min read
Nutrient balance: how to calculate dosages and compensate for element deficiencies
To obtain a high harvest of peppers, it is necessary to combine organic and mineral top dressing. Among organic fertilizers, it is best to use a solution of poultry manure or cow manure, while strictly observing dilution ratios. Add 2–3 tbsp of superphosphate per bucket of water to the cow manure. Excellent results are provided by an infusion of green plants and nettles. During the fermentation process, chelates are formed — organomineral complexes that are absorbed by peppers much more effectively than pure mineral fertilizers.
- Pour water over the weeds or nettles in a 1:1 ratio.
- Leave the mixture for one week for active fermentation.
- Dilute the resulting concentrate with water in a 1:8–1:10 ratio before root application.
For rapid revitalization of transplants, you can use fresh one-, three-, or four-day infusions of green plants at a rate of 1 kg of raw material per 10 l of water. Adding mineral fertilizers to such infusions significantly enhances their effect. Adjust the dosage of any top dressing depending on the state of the bushes. If signs of a specific nutrient deficiency are detected, increase its content in the next top dressing by 30 %.
Observe the synergy of fertilizer action. In case of a deficiency of even a single nutrient, still apply a full complex of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium components. Add supplementary fertilizers in reduced dosages — this will help the main substance be absorbed faster.
You can identify nutrient deficiencies by the appearance of the plants:
- with nitrogen deficiency, leaves pale, and bush growth slows down;
- a lack of phosphorus is signaled by wrinkled leaves with a purple hue;
- with potassium starvation, the edges of the lower and middle leaves quickly turn yellow (marginal scorch), which then turn brown and dry out, while fruits ripen unevenly;
- calcium deficiency manifests as yellowing of the upper leaves while the lower ones remain green, and the death of growth points.
Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, otherwise the plants will begin to "fatten" — actively growing foliage at the expense of fruit set, and also become vulnerable to aphids. At the first signs of excessive vegetative growth, perform a foliar top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at a dosage of 10–15 g per bucket of water.
Overfeeding with nitrogen also leads to the risk of nitrate accumulation in the fruits. However, mature peppers accumulate them in minimal quantities compared to leafy greens. In addition, the high content of ascorbic acid neutralizes the negative effect of nitrates on the human body. Wood ash serves as a high-quality source of potassium for peppers, and poultry manure or calcium nitrate serve as sources of calcium poultry manure or calcium nitrate.
Bush formation, harvesting, and prevention of fruit defects
High-yielding large-fruited cultivars of peppers require mandatory support, as the branches often break under the weight of the fruits. Medium-sized and short bushes up to 50–60 cm tall do not require tying or formation. Large-fruited peppers are tied to a stake first below the fork of the main stem, and then fixed as they grow every 20–30 cm. Pinching the tops for branching is not necessary, but a month before the end of the growing season, pinch the main growth points to stop the formation of new fruit sets and speed up the ripening of already filled fruits.
- Dilution of poultry manure — 1:12–1:15
- Dilution of cow manure — 1:8
- Dosage of phosphorus-potassium top dressing — 10–15 g per bucket of water
- Bush height without tying — up to 50–60 cm
- Storage life of fresh fruits — 1–2 months
- Temperature for ripening — not lower than 12 °C
The harvesting regimen directly affects the overall productivity of the plantation. Pick the first fruits before they reach their commercial size to stimulate the development of the leaf apparatus and increase subsequent yields. Harvest fruits more often in the phase of technical maturity, as this accelerates the formation of new fruit sets. The most beneficial fruits with the maximum content of biologically active substances ripen at biological maturity, however, harvesting only fully ripened fruits drastically reduces the total yield.
Any violations of agricultural practices and fluctuations in microclimate cause deformation of the peppers:
- growths inside the fruit indicate that flowering occurred at low temperatures;
- short and curved peppers are formed due to a combination of cold and excessive soil moisture;
- deep cracks on the fruit skin and blossom-end rot appear due to irregular irrigation.
To store fresh peppers for 1–2 months, harvest the fruits at the beginning of biological maturity and place them in a cool room to ripen. Before the onset of autumn frosts, bushes with unripe peppers can be replanted into a greenhouse or containers on a heated balcony. To prolong fruiting until spring, strictly control the temperature: it should not drop below 12 °C. For this purpose, on cold nights, you can leave the door from the room to the balcony open.
Maintaining a high level of agricultural practice reliably protects peppers from diseases. Take into account the varietal characteristics when planning protective measures. Domestic mid-sized cultivars possess high resistance, while imported cultivars and hybrids are more susceptible to diseases and require increased attention.
Disease prevention and pest protection
When growing peppers in a greenhouse, it is important to react in a timely manner to deviations from optimal environmental conditions. For instance, the appearance of purple-brown spots on the fruit is usually associated with a temperature drop and resolves on its own after the microclimate stabilizes. The Pioner, Druzhok, and Svetlyachok cultivars show high resistance to such temperature stress. Non-infectious blossom-end rot develops due to a calcium deficiency in the soil and uneven irrigation. The problem is solved by regulating irrigation, alkalinizing the soil with ash, and applying calcium nitrate or superphosphate.
Among infectious threats, the greatest danger is posed by verticillium wilt, which becomes active in hot weather. The pathogen penetrates from the soil, causing the lower leaves to wilt and completely halting the growth of the bush and fruit. Since the fungus remains viable in the soil for many years, the primary method of protection is strict adherence to crop rotation. Viral stolbur manifests as leaf chlorosis, plant stunting, and fruit deformity. The virus is transmitted by sucking insects, so prevention comes down to destroying weeds, regular loosening of the soil, and selecting resistant cultivars.
Alternaria leaf spot (dry spot) affects leaves, stems, and fruits, manifesting as large brown concentric spots that become covered with a black velvety coating during damp weather. To protect the crops, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture during the growing season, crop rotation is observed, and plant residues are destroyed. Anthracnose can be recognized by dark, defined spots with black pustules on vegetative and generative organs. Control measures for this disease are entirely analogous to protection schemes for cucumbers.
A high level of nitrogen nutrition in greenhouses triggers the rapid reproduction of aphids. At the first signs of the pest's appearance, it is necessary to optimize the mineral balance and limit nitrogen doses.
For aphid control, foliar top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is effective, as well as treatments with plant extracts. Good results are obtained by spraying with infusions of wormwood, tansy, tobacco dust, or onion skins. You can prepare working solutions for plant protection according to proven recipes.
- Concentration of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for treatments — 10–15 g per 10 L of water
- Volume of the chopped mixture of onion and dandelion leaves — 1 cup per 10 L of water
- Dosage of liquid soap as a surfactant — 1 tbsp per 10 L of water
Processing methods and fruit preservation recipes
The harvested pepper yield can be processed in various ways. For pickling, whole fruits are blanched for 3–5 minutes after removing the seeds, while sliced pieces are placed into jars without thermal treatment. The raw material is poured over with boiling water for 20 minutes, then the water is replaced with a boiling marinade and sealed. When making lecho, blanched red pepper is sliced lengthwise, packed tightly into containers, and covered with boiling tomato juice, followed by sterilization for 40–50 minutes.
To prepare lecho, for every 10 kg of prepared pepper, use 100 g of salt, 100 g of sugar, and 5 L of tomato juice. When pickling, one three-liter jar requires an incomplete 100-gram cup of salt, sugar, and vinegar.
For a dry seasoning for borsch, peeled ripe red pepper is minced with garlic, salt is added in the amount of 15–20% of the total volume of the mixture, sealed with plastic lids, and stored in the refrigerator. Another quick processing method is frying whole punctured fruits in vegetable oil, followed by covering them with a mixture of fried tomatoes, onions, herbs, and garlic. The pepper can also be boiled for 5–10 minutes, cooled, covered with brine (at a rate of 70 g of salt per 1 L of water), and stored in a cool place.
The technology of preparing fermented peppers under pressure allows for the preservation of high flavor qualities of the produce until February. The process consists of several sequential stages.
- Remove the seeds from 5 kg of pepper and blanch the fruits in boiling water.
- Place the peppers in a container in layers, generously sprinkling them with chopped garlic and dill sprigs.
- Prepare a marinade from 100 g of salt, 100 ml of apple cider vinegar, 200 g of sugar, 200 g of sunflower oil, and 200 ml of water.
- Pour the hot marinade over the fruits, place a weight on top, and let stand for 24 hours at room temperature before moving to a cold place.
There is also a recipe for spicy ajika without adding tomatoes. To prepare it, 2 kg of peeled sweet pepper, 3–5 hot peppers, and 150 g of garlic are passed through a meat grinder. 7 tablespoons of sugar, 3 tablespoons of salt, and 80 ml of vinegar are added to the resulting mass, mixed thoroughly, and packed into jars for cold storage.
And have you ever tried baking peppers on glowing charcoal, having first wrapped them well in burdock leaves? Actually, not just peppers, but also potatoes, zucchini, and summer squash, eggplant can be prepared just as quickly at the dacha. And then, you can eat these juicy fruits however you like: with salt, without it, or with gravy, dipping them in oil with garlic. This is an appetizer, and for a drink, you can make cups out of peppers, having first removed the seeds from the fruits. Or perhaps all of this is just an excuse to relax and sit by the fire. A campfire! How much romance and magical appeal it holds. It draws in g Re < eb 1 > Ah e7
r <55) the soul with its orange tongues of flame. And songs by the fire! The soul fills with blissful peace, and life changes its accents. And you think that, after all, a person needs so little for happiness. My God, how we squander ourselves in this hustle and bustle of life, in a rapid race for illusory material well-being, often resembling robots and impoverishing ourselves of simple, easily accessible pleasures. More moments like these by the fire, in the woods, on the river — and happiness will fill
Eggplant is a beloved gourmet vegetable crop. The first thing that comes to mind with the name of this vegetable is eggplant caviar (sinenkie), which has been deservedly called food of the gods.
And can there really be an August without sautéed fried sinenkie, peppers, and tomatoes, seasoned with onions and garlic! In winter, you can indulge in salted and pickled eggplant. If you try stewed eggplant seasoned with sour cream sauce and fried onions, you will be surprised: they taste so much like mushrooms in sour cream. Remember how appetizing salted eggplant stuffed with carrots looks at the markets? They are record-holders in price, and we, of course, do not buy them, but we make a note — we will definitely make them at home.
It is nice to sometimes remember the good old days when we were young and everything existed! There were kebabs! Lamb! Although the tastiest for me was a kebab with vegetables, when, besides meat and onions, peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants were threaded onto the skewers. Juicy meat, juicy vegetables! Finger-licking good! And all according to the rules of nutritional hygiene: meat is best with vegetables.
Eggplant is so popular that it needs no advertising. However, few people know that nutritional hygiene experts give eggplant top marks. And this is due to the high content of many mineral substances, in particular potassium, manganese, folic acid, and anthocyanin.
The gentle dietary fiber stimulates bowel activity, prevents the development of putrefactive processes, contributes to the improvement of heart and liver function, and normalizes salt metabolism. Eggplant is useful in the treatment of gout and atherosclerosis.
In the East, eggplants are called the vegetable of longevity, often used as a side dish for fatty meat dishes. And Eastern nations know a thing or two about this. After all, it is the eggplant fruits that have an anti-cholesterol effect, preventing tissues from absorbing cholesterol compounds. Moreover, this effect increases with higher consumption of fatty foods.
We should specifically note that the presence of manganese in eggplant protects the liver from fatty degeneration and activates insulin's ability to lower blood sugar levels. Medieval treatises on pharmacology of the Ancient East mention that eggplant softens hard tumors. And in Ancient Egypt, eggplant was attributed with magical properties that help in love affairs.
At the same time, if we buy this miracle vegetable rather than growing it ourselves, the dietary properties of the eggplant may be called into question. The fact is that the main problem in cultivating eggplant is the battle against the Colorado potato beetle, for which this vegetable is a favorite treat.
In mid-August, when the period of mass eggplant harvesting begins, the foliage on potatoes is already drying out, and therefore whole swarms of beetles head towards the sinenkie. However, according to sanitary standards, the treatment of eggplant with poisons must be stopped 20 days before harvesting. How those who grow eggplant for sale handle this is unknown to us.
That is why you should grow eggplant yourself. To obtain guaranteed harvests without using pesticides, you need to know the biology of the crop and the secrets of agricultural techniques. Biological characteristics of the eggplant:
- The homeland of the eggplant is the tropical regions of Southeast Asia, in particular India.
- As a crop, the eggplant has been known for more than 1500 years.
- In China, it was even grown as a medicinal plant.
- In Russia, eggplant began to be cultivated as a vegetable crop in Astrakhan in the 18th century.
- And it was brought to Ukraine from Bulgaria.
- Back in the 40s–50s of the last century, eggplant cultivars indicating their Bulgarian origin were grown in the southern regions of Ukraine.
The agricultural technique for growing eggplant has much in common with growing pepper. The soil preparation is the same as for pepper. Eggplant places special demands on soil fertility and soil structure. It should be loose and fertilized, but not excessively so. I once observed an inexperienced specialist apply such an amount of fresh manure that only foliage grew, while there were no fruits. An excess of nitrogen caused fruit set abortion. Eggplants are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations: both a decrease and a strong increase lead to the shedding of flowers and fruit sets. The optimal temperature is 25–28 °С. In case of frosts and prolonged exposure to low temperatures, plants die. At temperatures below 15 °С, seeds do not germinate. Eggplant is more demanding of soil moisture than pepper. With its lack, plants stop growing, fruit sets fall off, and the fruits take on an ugly shape.
Selection of eggplant cultivars and hybrids
Growing eggplants in protected ground requires precise selection of the assortment for the greenhouse design. Tall hybrids up to 2.5–3 m high allow for maximum utilization of the volume of winter greenhouses, whereas compact forms are more suitable for spring film structures. In addition, it is important for the agronomist to control microclimate parameters and soil quality, as the crop is extremely sensitive to growing conditions. Shading, excessive pesticide application, and soil compaction cause the shedding of flowers and fruit sets, and the lack of natural wind requires artificial pollination, despite the self-pollinating nature of the crop.
Eggplant is extremely demanding of light. For optimal development, it requires a bright but short southern daylight.
Below are the characteristics of the main cultivars and hybrids recommended for growing in winter and film greenhouses. The data are grouped by maturity periods, fruit parameters, and productivity in different conditions. This will help to compare yield indicators for planning the production cycle.
Characteristics of eggplant cultivars and hybrids:
| Cultivar or hybrid | Maturity period and bush type | Fruit parameters | Yield and growing conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vagomyi | Early-ripening, medium-height | Elongated pear-shaped, dark purple, mass 230–250 g. Flesh dense, yellow-white. | 9 kg/m² in film greenhouses, 13 kg/m² in winter greenhouses. |
| Pushchansky-60 | Early-ripening, tall | Cylindrical, dark purple, length 25–32 cm, mass 240–250 g. | 14–15 kg/m² in winter greenhouses. |
| Viola | Early-ripening, tall | Dark purple, length 18–22 cm, mass 260–270 g. | 16–18 kg/m² in winter greenhouses. |
| F1 Ultraranniy | Maturity in 80–100 days, short | Dark purple, pear-shaped, length 12–15 cm. | High-yielding. Intended for open ground and film greenhouses. |
| F1 Adonis | Maturity in 90–105 days, short | Dark purple, length 14–16 cm. | High-yielding. Intended for open ground and film greenhouses. |
| Almaz | Mid-ripening, short | Cylindrical, dark purple, length 14–17 cm, diameter 3–6 cm, mass 120 g. Flesh dense with a greenish tint, without bitterness. | High yield and uniform fruit production. Popular among vegetable growers for over 20 years. |
| Fialka | Early-ripening (at least 10 days earlier than the Almaz cultivar), short | Cylindrical, purple, mass up to 250 g, length 14–16 cm. Flesh white, dense, without bitterness. White coloration near the stalk under the calyx. | Over 10 fruits per bush in open ground, up to 30–40 full-value fruits in greenhouses. |
| Premier | Early-ripening (a few days later than the Fialka cultivar), short | Oval-cylindrical, red-purple, mass 250–300 g (open ground), up to 500 g (greenhouses). Flesh white. | High-yielding, resistant to disease. |
| Helios | Mid-ripening, short | Globular, light purple, mass 300–700 g. Flesh dense, white, does not darken when cut, without bitterness. | High-yielding. |
In the practice of protected ground, specialized hybrids are also widely used, including large-fruited forms and variants with atypical coloration. They differ in requirements for greenhouse heating and growing technology. Using such hybrids allows diversifying the product assortment with white and globular fruits.
Characteristics of imported and specialized hybrids:
| Hybrid or cultivar | Bush height and maturity period | Fruit shape and color | Yield and purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| F1 Bard, F1 Goliath, F1 Gorodovoy, Dolphin, Dirizhabl, Solomon | Vigorous (up to 3 m), mid-season | Large-fruited | 16–17 kg/m² in heated greenhouses. |
| Balagur, Bumbo, Vakula, Romantik | Medium-height (up to 2 m), mid-early | Large-fruited | 9–12 kg/m² in spring greenhouses. |
| Robin Gud | Dwarf (up to 1 m), early-maturing | Typical fruits | 7–12 kg/m² in insulated greenhouses and open soil. |
| F1 Lolita | Early-maturing | Traditional purple color, typical shape | For film and winter greenhouses. |
| F1 Bagira | Mid-season | Traditional purple color, typical shape | For low-volume hydroponics. |
| F1 Begemot | Mid-season | Traditional purple color, typical shape | For film and glazed greenhouses. |
| F1 Pingpong | Early-maturing | Globular shape, white color (resembles a tennis ball) | For film and winter greenhouses. |
| F1 Pelikan | Mid-season | Saber-shaped, milky-white color | For film and winter greenhouses. |
Planting rules and layout schemes
Soil preparation for planting eggplants follows the same rules as for tomatoes. The timing for transferring transplants to greenhouses also coincides with that of tomatoes; however, the eggplant is more sensitive to soil temperature at planting. Any chilling of the root system during this period will lead to a delay in plant development.
- Transplant age — 60–65 days
- Soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm — no lower than 15 °C
- Planting density of Orion hybrid — 1.8 plants/m²
- Density for medium-height peppers — 5 plants/m²
- Density for low-growing peppers — 8 plants/m²
When planting transplants, it is important to strictly observe the technology of handling the root system and stem. This will prevent the development of root rots and ensure rapid plant establishment in the new location. Violation of planting rules can completely nullify soil preparation efforts.
The eggplant does not form adventitious roots on the stem. Plant the plants strictly vertically, avoiding any burial of the stem or subsequent hilling of the bushes, otherwise the root collar will begin to rot.
- Prepare the soil using the same technology as for tomatoes.
- Wait for the soil to warm up at a depth of 10 cm to a temperature of no lower than 15 °C (control measurement is taken at 8 o'clock in the morning).
- Plant transplants at the age of 60–65 days (in the winter-spring cycle, work begins in January).
- Set the bushes strictly vertically, completely excluding stem burial and hilling.
Planting schemes depend on the vigor of the crop. Tall hybrids in the winter-spring cycle are planted in a 50x60 cm scheme, which corresponds to a density of 3.3 plants per 1 m². For the Orion hybrid, the nutritional area is increased by planting 1.8 plants per 1 m² (or forming 5.5 stems per 1 m²). Medium-height pepper cultivars and hybrids in spring greenhouses are placed at 5 plants per 1 m², and low-growing ones — at 8 plants per 1 m² according to the (80+40)x20 cm scheme.
Temperature and water regimes for growing eggplants are close to those for growing peppers. At the same time, the eggplant is more heat- and moisture-loving than pepper. Sharp temperature drops, lack of heat, and overheating can cause mass shedding of reproductive organs. The eggplant crop is very responsive to loosening. Eggplants are regularly fertilized, just like tomatoes. Special attention should be paid to the application of magnesium, for which we recommend using potassium magnesium sulfate.
For better pollination of flowers and fruit set, beehives are placed in the greenhouse with eggplants.
Harvesting fruits can be viewed as regulating the load on the plant. The fruit load is managed by harvesting small, younger fruits and large old ones. It should be taken into account that young fruits have poor storage life and do not keep for long.
Features of growing eggplant in hotbeds. As is known, hotbeds differ from film covers by the presence of side bracing. It is this difference that is very important for prioritizing hotbeds for eggplant cultivation. A film fence 50 cm high acts as a barrier to the entry of the Colorado potato beetle to the eggplant plants. And this cultivation method allows for obtaining environmentally friendly produce.
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