Pruning techniques for fruit trees and rules for using garden tools

For agronomists

17.05.2026 3 min read

The quality of pruning directly affects the speed of wound healing and the proper development of the tree canopy. Errors in cutting technique lead to bud desiccation, shoot deformation, and general weakening of the plant. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to strictly follow technical parameters for each operation — from shortening annual growth to removing skeletal branches.

When shortening shoots, a cut is made to a bud at an angle. Its lower edge should be slightly above the base level of the bud, and the upper edge should be at the same distance above its apex. Any deviations from these rules disrupt the distribution of nutrients and interfere with the normal growth of the new shoot.

Cut angle — 45°
Lower edge above the bud base — up to 2 mm
Upper edge above the bud apex — up to 2 mm

Do not start the cut too low, otherwise, the wound will be elongated, and the bud will dry out or produce a weak shoot. If the cut is too high, the new shoot will deviate from the vertical, and the remaining stub will dry out and hinder wound healing. On branches where deviation is undesirable, a stub should not be left; it is kept only during winter pruning to protect the bud from frost or when creating protective links.

Рис. 64. Срез на почку: — Fig. 64. Cut to a bud: 1, 2, 3 – incorrect, 4 – correct.

Рис. 65. При низком срезе побег плохо растет (1), при высоком – слабое (2) и сильное (3) отклонение ветви. — Fig. 65. With a low cut, the shoot grows poorly (1); with a high cut, there is weak (2) and strong (3) branch deviation.

Selection and rules for using garden tools

Small branches are shortened and removed at the collar using a garden knife or pruners. The tool must be sharply honed; otherwise, it will crush the plant tissues and prolong the tree's recovery period. When using a garden knife, it is important to secure the branch properly and make smooth, jerky-free movements.

Slightly bend the branch to be removed in the direction opposite to the start of the cut.
Support the branch being pruned with your left hand below the cut site.
With your right hand, make the cut with a sharp motion toward yourself.

Рис. 67. Техника обрезки садовым ножом: А – при вырезке на кольцо удаляемую ветвь слегка отогнуть в сторону, противоположную началу среза; Б – при укорачивании на почку левой рукой поддерживают обрезаемую ветвь ниже места среза, а правой резким движением — Fig. 67. Pruning technique with a garden knife: A – when removing at the collar, slightly bend the branch to be removed in the direction opposite to the start of the cut; B – when shortening to a bud, support the branch being pruned with your left hand below the cut site, and make the cut with a sharp motion toward yourself with the right hand.

When using pruners, ensure the tool does not skew or twist in your hand. Always direct its wide, sharp part toward the part of the branch that is being left. The counter-cutting blade of the pruners is thicker than the blade and inevitably crushes the tissues, so all damage must remain on the part of the branch being removed.

Рис. 66. Правильный срез (1, 2), оставлен шипик для подвязки побега (3). — Fig. 66. Correct cut (1, 2), stub left for tying the shoot (3).

Never direct the pruner blade along the wood grain to avoid splitting the branch. In all cases, make the cut strictly across the grain.

Рис. 68. Техника обрезки секатором: А – ветвь легче вырезать, слегка отогнув в сторону, противоположную началу вхождения клинка в ткани ветви; Б – лезвие секатора нельзя направлять вдоль волокон, так как возможно расщепление ветви; во всех случаях надо ре — Fig. 68. Pruning technique with pruners: A – it is easier to remove a branch by slightly bending it in the direction opposite to the start of the blade's entry into the branch tissue; B – the pruner blade must not be directed along the grain as the branch may split; in all cases, you must cut across the grain.

Рис. 69. Правильное положение руки на секаторе. — Fig. 69. Correct hand position on the pruners.

Рис. 70. Чтобы у ран не было жеваных краев, секатор ставят плоскостью широкого лезвия к оставляемой части ветви. — Fig. 70. To prevent jagged edges on wounds, place the pruners with the wide blade facing the part of the branch that is being left.

Large branches must not be removed with a knife or pruners to avoid jagged wounds that rot slowly. Such branches should be sawed off with a garden saw strictly along the top of the branch collar. It is sufficient to support a thin branch with your free hand while sawing, whereas a heavy one is removed in several stages. Following the three-step sawing technique prevents dangerous bark and wood tearing, which creates massive non-healing wounds on the trunk.

Make the first cut from below at a distance of 25–30 cm from the base of the branch and continue until the saw blade begins to bind.
Make the second cut from above, 3–5 cm closer to the trunk relative to the first cut, and remove the main part of the branch.
Carefully saw off the remaining stub along the branch collar while supporting it with your hand.

Рис. 71. Техника вырезки крупной ветви при хорошем угле отхождения: 1 – неправильно (ветвь отломилась, рана будет зарастать очень плохо); 2 – правильно: а – первый запил; б – второй запил; в – вырезка пенька по кольцевому наплыву. — Fig. 71. Technique for removing a large branch with a good branch angle: 1 – incorrect (the branch broke off, the wound will heal very poorly); 2 – correct: a – first cut; b – second cut; c – removal of the stub along the branch collar.

You must not leave stubs on the central leader and at the base of the main branches, as they rot and promote the formation of cavities. Also, do not make the cut parallel to the trunk – in this case, the wound becomes larger and heals with difficulty.

Рис. 72. Вырезка крупных ветвей: 1 – правильно (рана зарастает быстро и равномерно); 2 – неправильно (оставлен большой пенек); 3, 4 – неправильно: косые срезы, раны зарастают неравномерно; 5 – неправильно: слишком длинный срез. — Fig. 72. Pruning of large branches: 1 – correct (the wound heals quickly and evenly); 2 – incorrect (a large stub is left); 3, 4 – incorrect: oblique cuts, wounds heal unevenly; 5 – incorrect: the cut is too long.

Рис. 73. Ликвидация острой развилки: а – подавление развития одной из ветвей сильной обрезкой на перевод на слабенькую ветвь; б – вырезка оставленной части ветви после утолщения основной; рана получается небольшая, хорошо зарастает. — Fig. 73. Elimination of a narrow crotch: a – suppressing the development of one of the branches by heavy pruning to redirect growth to a weaker branch; b – cutting off the remaining part of the branch after the main one has thickened; the resulting wound is small and heals well.

In case of a narrow crotch angle, a branch collar usually does not form. To correctly determine the cut location, two lines are conventionally drawn at the base of the branch to be removed: one parallel to the trunk (or the supporting branch) and the other perpendicular to the axis of the branch being removed; the cut is made along the line that bisects this angle.

Рис. 74. Техника вырезки крупной ветви при остром (менее 40°) угле отхождения: а – первый запил; б – второй запил; в – вырезка пенька. — Fig. 74. Technique for cutting a large branch with a narrow (less than 40°) crotch angle: a – first cut; b – second cut; c – cutting the stub.

Рис. 75. Зачистка крупных ран садовым ножом или стамеской. — Fig. 75. Cleaning large wounds with a grafting knife or chisel.

Рис. 76. Зачистка крупных ран после обрезки: 1 – правильно; 2 – неправильно (закруглен срез); 3 – неправильно (очень далеко обрезана кора вокруг раны). — Fig. 76. Cleaning large wounds after pruning: 1 – correct; 2 – incorrect (cut rounded off); 3 – incorrect (bark cut too far around the wound).

The rough surface of cuts made by a saw should be smoothed with a sharp knife or chisel so that water does not accumulate on the wound surface and it is easier to cover it with wound dressing. The dressing should be applied 1–2 hours after pruning and in any case no later than 24 hours after the cut.