Design of ventilation systems and installation of greenhouse glazing

Ventilation and Selection of Glazing Profiles

Efficient air exchange is a mandatory condition for maintaining an optimal microclimate in a greenhouse. Heated air naturally tends to rise, therefore, when designing the roof, it is necessary to provide a sufficient number of ceiling ventilation windows and hatches. For the ventilation to work reliably, all opening mechanisms must function flawlessly.

To create a light-transmitting roof, it is practical to use ready-made aluminum profile systems. Industrial options for large greenhouse complexes are available on the market; however, there are also universal small-sized systems made of aluminum angles. They allow for the mounting of both single-layer and multi-layer glass, as well as sheets of cellular plastic. Such a solution is characterized by ease of assembly, versatility, and high resistance to atmospheric influences.

• Roof glazing strip width — 1.2 m
• Wooden clamping rail thickness — 25.4 mm
• Minimum gap between sheets — 10 mm

Installation Rules for Light-Transmitting Roofing

When installing stationary glazing made of cellular plastic or thermal insulation glass, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the materials. In warm weather, a technological gap must be left between the sheets. When the temperature drops, this gap increases as the plastic contracts in the cold. If installing the cover in cold weather, the gap must be made wider.

The magnitude of thermal expansion for polycarbonate and acrylic sheets depending on air temperature is presented in the table.

The technology for installing stationary glazing includes the sequential execution of the following operations:

1. Lay and secure wide soft sealing cords over the rafters or roof joists.
2. Lay out the light-transmitting sheets or thermal insulation glass, maintaining the necessary gap.
3. Drill holes for fasteners in the cellular plastic sheets with a diameter margin so that they maintain mobility during thermal expansion.
4. Prepare wooden clamping rails with a thickness of 25.4 mm (1 inch) — treat them with an antiseptic under pressure and be sure to paint them before starting assembly.
5. Mark and drill mounting holes in the wooden rails, aligning them with the holes in the plastic sheets.
6. Secure the rails with long galvanized screws with waterproof prKK! locks, pressing the plastic tightly against the seals.
7. Seal the joints with elastic adhesive tape and install metal flashing at the connection points with the solid roof.

For opening ventilation hatches, wooden clamping rails are not suitable due to their bulkiness. When glazing hatch frames, use a sealing cord and an aluminum angle fixed along the edge of the frame. The angles are screwed in such a way that they press the plastic tightly and evenly against the seal around the entire perimeter.

The authors recommend using cellular plastic sheets in roof structures, and especially in ventilation hatches, as they are lightweight and easier to work with than ordinary glass. The cellular structure of the plastic allows for the production of thick, durable sheets that can withstand snow loads with spans up to 1.2 m. If the span length is greater, it is necessary to install intermediate supports.

Facing boards, ventilation hatches, flooring, area for planting crops, etc. After the windows and doors are mounted and a waterproof roof is constructed, finishing, electrical, and plumbing works remain. In the greenhouse room, lighting fixtures and other electrical devices should be installed; one should not forget about equipping the greenhouse with a water tap.

In the example under consideration, the water pipe is extended from the kitchen directly through its outer wall, and a water tap with a fitting for connecting a flexible hose is mounted immediately. It is necessary to provide for complete draining of water from the entire greenhouse water supply system. The water intake should be located on the inner side of the residential house behind a tightly closing and carefully thermally insulated hatch.

The base parts under the windows must be equipped with thermal insulation. In addition, provision should be made for the installation of air intake hatches or valves. After that, it is necessary to mount horizontal panels on both sides of the base, install mosquito nets in the required places, and construct a horizontal grille in the locations of the air intake hatches on both end walls of the greenhouse. Mosquito nets are especially necessary during the period when mosquitoes appear. It should also be remembered that bees and wasps can be beneficial, so a path for them must be left open during the daytime, for example, through ventilation hatches on the roof or in windows. To complete the exterior finishing work, several vertical facing boards and architraves are nailed in place. A significant part of the painting work is done during the construction process. Facing boards for covering structures should also be covered with a layer of paint in advance, before the start of installation work, as this is much easier. Thus, only cosmetic painting work remains to be done from the outside. It is necessary to paint all areas where the paint layer is insufficient, as well as where the painted surface has been damaged during the work process. Of course, you can re-paint all surface structures with a brush or sprayer, without additional masking with adhesive tape.

Painting of sheet iron can be delayed for a year, as the paint will adhere better to the surface after that. It is true, however, that there are many detergents available for cleaning iron of industrial contaminants. After that, all sheet iron surfaces should be painted with appropriate metal paint. |.

Fig. 89. Openable light-transmitting roof hatch

1 — cellular plastic sheet; 2 — sealing cords (rubber sealing hoses); 3 — hatch frame; 4 — light metal mounting bracket; 5 — open position fixing rail; 6 — iron gutter

Fig. 90. Scheme of outdoor air intake through a ventilation hatch 1 — ventilation hatch with thermal insulation; 2 — grille; 3 — mosquito net; 4 — device for fixing the open position (e.g., chain)

Fig. 91. Facade wall with a greenhouse

1 — roofing iron; 2 — fixed glass mounted on the roof; 3 — glass hatch; 4 — roof eaves board; 5 — moisture-resistant plywood; 6 — double-glazed window; 7 — base plinth covering; 8 — facing board; 9 — plaster layer on the base plinth; 10 — ventilation hatch; 11 — glass door

- The construction of the floor and plant beds can be left for last, as these works do not depend on weather conditions. Painting the interior surfaces of the greenhouse is also done last. A plant bed in the form of an open box or, as in the considered example, the entire area for planting can be equipped in many ways — as a stationary structure with brick edges (masonry) or as an open box that can be easily moved. Two such solutions are presented here. It is necessary to remember the following: the thickness of the soil layer should be at least 30—40 cm; _, the possibility of adding _ or replacing the soil must be provided; °, conditions for planting and plant care, as well as for harvesting, must be ensured, i.e., there must be unobstructed access to the plants; required light conditions must be provided (see ch. 7); the area for planting and possible options for its layout should provide for the possibility of growing plants at all times of the year. The greenhouse floor can be constructed in different ways. A beautiful and durable floor can be obtained by using brick slabs or natural stone slabs by laying them on a concrete foundation or placing them on the surface of compacted sand. Another method is laying planed boards on the sand surface after pressure treatment. A wooden floor dries quickly, and its surface warms up fast. A disadvantage of wood materials is their unsatisfactory heat-storage capacity compared to stone. The design solutions recommended by the authors are shown in Fig. 92. | After the greenhouse owner has familiarized himself with all the pros and cons of various design solutions, he can develop his own individual solutions. The end result should be a comfortable greenhouse attached to a residential building that fulfills its functional purpose. | |

Fig. 92. Setup for plant cultivation and floor construction

1 — planed board about 25 mm thick (pressure treated); 2 — concrete; 3 — foam plastic thermal insulation; 4 — brick panel floor; 5 — board panel (pressure treated); 6 — slab covering (natural stone); 7 — moisture-resistant plywood; 8 — gravel casting; 9 — wooden pile (pressure treated)..

Greenhouse on the balcony (loggia) of a multi-story building

Balconies (loggias) are present in almost all multi-story buildings. Often they are poorly adapted for practical use, primarily due to their lack of protection from wind and other external factors, as well as due to insufficient width and especially depth dimensions.

Some recommendations are given here for those who want to use their balconies (loggias) for leisure and growing parsley, green onions, etc.

In our example, we are considering a multi-story building with spacious four-room apartments including a kitchen and bathroom... On the south side, there is a large balcony supported by four columns; in other words, it is located separately from the building. This balcony is intended to be converted into a greenhouse and, therefore, into a protected outdoor space.

The authors hope that the reader has carefully studied the previous section, as many of the issues discussed there are also applicable to multi-story buildings. In this case, the task is significantly simplified, as the foundation, frame, base, and roof of the intended greenhouse already exist.

Using the balcony or loggia space. First, it is necessary to decide how the balcony or loggia area will be used and how this area can be divided into functional parts, among which at least three zones can be identified: a walkway zone, a leisure zone (for eating, sunbathing, reading books, etc.), and a zone for planting.

The zone for human passage is formed by a strip 60—80 cm wide, running from the door and intended for access to plants, as well as for opening windows. The passage zone must also allow for the convenient delivery of food and drinks to the table. The dimensions of the zones for human presence and for planting depend on their operational purpose and, above all, on the dimensions of the available area. Quite often, the dimensions of the loggia do not correspond to those given in the example under consideration. |

Glazing. The structures of light-transmitting walls can be made of wood or metal. In the example considered, timber was chosen for the same reasons as in the case of a small detached house. Timber is more suitable for DIY construction, provides acceptable thermal insulation (does not create problems associated with condensation), has an attractive appearance (is distinguished by a "warm" tone), and is not subject to corrosion. The durability of a timber structure after pressure treatment with protective agents is measured in decades.

At timber trading firms, one can purchase ready-made planed frames, from which it is easy to assemble window frames yourself, either as individual elements or completely. However, it is easier to place an order for the manufacture of completely finished windows, possibly even with glazing and installation at the destination.

For glazing small openings, ordinary glass 3—4 mm thick can be used, and for large openings — glass of greater thickness. One option involves the installation of double-glazed thermal insulating glass. This requires somewhat deeper grooves for securing the glass (16—20 mm) and, in addition, a different profile for the frames, as well as for muntins and openings. The aforementioned cellular plastic sheets, since they are easily processed, can be used for any premises where it is necessary to provide light ingress, but it is not necessary to see the exterior space. When using such cellular plastic sheets, glazing is carried out using glazing beads, sealing cords, and elastic adhesive tape. Cellular plastic sheets should, as a rule, be installed in such a way as to ensure a vertical arrangement of the grooves in them with an open exit of the slots downwards so that condensation water formed inside the grooves can flow out. If it is necessary to provide for glazing work on structures, then it should be emphasized that ensuring the waterproofing of the window wall is more important than the thermal insulation of the glass.

Фышр Рош О ЧФшм оли рый — вай 4 р вые ——.—.

Fig. 98. Finished residential house with a greenhouse (manufacturer — Kestilän Talotehdas company, Kestilä housing construction plant, architect B. Erat).

Fig. 94. Residential section with a balcony in a multi-story building

Fig. 95. Functional distribution of the balcony area of a multi-story building

1 — human movement zone; 2 — human presence zone (space for furniture); 3 — zone for growing plants; 4 — protection from external view

In the places where the facade wall structures join the balcony or loggia (slabs, columns, roof), waterproofing must also be provided in the greenhouse; however, it must be ensured that the various parts of these structures have the ability to move.

Expansion of the balcony (loggia). For the normal functioning of a greenhouse on a balcony (loggia), an area of at least 10 m² with a depth of 2 m is required. If the dimensions of the balcony or loggia are smaller, the greenhouse area should be increased using simple structures, as shown, for example, in Fig. 99. No universal solutions can be proposed here. It is necessary to precisely establish the initial data of multi-story buildings (dimensions, structures, possibilities for obtaining sunlight, needs for protection from the external environment, ensuring the view and ventilation of both the greenhouse itself and the living rooms).

Greenhouse construction. A greenhouse on a balcony or loggia can be built individually, taking into account the wishes and capabilities of each resident. The final result achieved by following the recommendations outlined here ensures an active and comfortable life; however, such a project can be quite difficult to implement. Therefore, the authors recommend that projects for creating greenhouses be implemented in conjunction with the entire house and that the construction of such greenhouses be completed simultaneously with the building's construction. In this case, many problems are simplified, such as obtaining a building permit, erecting construction

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1 — large opening part of the wall with windows; 2 — small ventilation hatches | t

Fig. 98. Glass balcony wall (axonometry).

Fig. 99. Example of a design solution for balcony extension 1 — balcony slab; 2 — old railing; 3 — portable box for plant growing; 4 — steel support bracket; 5 — glued laminated beam (fixed to the side wall); 6 — wall with windows.

scaffolding, purchasing materials and hardware, etc. Making a collective decision and joint construction is not always easy to implement, nevertheless, one should strive for this, since in addition to a beautiful and properly functioning greenhouse, one can also acquire good neighbors and friends.